“Dior in Puglia: the land of Cruise 2021 inspiration”
“All my work is deeply autobiographical”
– Maria Grazia Chiuri, interview on Vanity Fair –
It is difficult to define in a few words one of the most brilliant and intelligent contemporary women to associate the terms “inspiring woman”: Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first creative director of Dior’s women’s lines, is not only the one who currently inspires dozens and dozens of fashion designers from all over the world. Chiuri has reintroduced (or introduced, if you like) the concept of sustainability in fashion, linking it, in particular, to issues of equality and women’s emancipation. “Everything is political”, quotes the title of a recent interview with Maria Grazia for Vanity Fair conducted by Raffaella Perna.
Chiuri is the emblem of an emancipated, cultured, independent woman whose culture ranges from painting, dance, cinema, and literature. Her collaborations with artists such as Paola Mattioli and Brigitte Lacombe, quotes on T-Shirts such as “We all should be feminists” – a very important essay on feminism by the Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie -, and sponsorships by the Dior house of art exhibitions such as “Il soggetto imprevisto – 1978 Arte e Femminismo in Italia“, make us understand the cultural standing of Maria Grazia.
Her artistic sensibility has been the driving force behind the Dior Cruise campaigns around the world (from Marrakesh to Cuba) and what has led her to the place where she has managed to weave together memory (almost Proustian, if you like), tradition, craftsmanship, art and fashion: the last Dior Cruise campaign was carried out in Lecce, the birthplace of her family. In a beautiful video published on Youtube, “Dior in Puglia: the land of Cruise 2021 inspiration”, directed by Edoardo Winspeare, we retrace, in a completely exciting way, the whole creative process that led Maria Grazia Chiuri not only to retrace the paths of when she was a child, but also all the way from Puglia to Paris without ever forgetting her love for the traditions of her land. In the creation of the clothes for the Cruise 2021 and the set design for the parade, Chiuri made use of artists of the calibre of Pietro Ruffo and local craftsmen – such as those working on the tombolo or the luminarie created by the talented artist Marinella Senatore – almost as if it were a huge medieval building site. The music and dances for the parade focused on traditional Salento tarantism and were created by the composer Paolo Buonvino and the extraordinary choreographer and dancer Sharon Eyal, the latter managing to capture all the drama of a dance that presents the archetypal fears of a people.
Once again and very intelligently, the designer of Dior has conveyed the possibility of a harmonious union between the world of art and fashion that is at the basis of all the magnificent clothes seen on the catwalk in Lecce and that intertwine, like the threads of tombolo, with its memories and with the tradition of a land that constantly needs to be kept alive. History, the culture at the base of contemporary revolutions – also feminist -, therefore.